New climbs on the old MCK forum
22 Jun 2012

NFD Bodich [Lebendera] The Belfry HVS 5a*** 420m FA Loren Hostetter and Duncan Francis, 15 Nov 14.

See 4) above.

The route is on the South Face of Bodich, also known as Lebendera, on the North bank of the Ewaso Ngir’o river, about 10km East of Archer’s Post. The mountain and cliffs can be seen from the main road. Note: the mountain is in a KDF training area, but this does not seem to be an issue.

To get to Bodich, cross the river bridge heading North into Archer’s Post, then as soon as possible drop off the road to the right and double back on yourself. At a shack marked ‘garage’ turn left, then first right, then left again to pick up a track which generally follows the line of telegraph poles heading East. This eventually leads to a ford [often dry] across a tributary of the main river. Once across the ford, head right [South] on a decent track towards the main river. before reaching it, another track branches off to the left. Follow this, which gradually fades away as you get closer to the mountain. But persevere, as it does exist, and follow it to directly below the crags, which are some 800m away and uphill. Good campsites along the river.

To get to the crag, head straight uphill through bush and rocks. The crag can be climbed on at any time of year. The rock is basement gneiss [I think…], the same as at Lukenia and Tsavo, and is generally sound and clean, although the first two pitches suffer from some bat pooh dribbles…… The route is reasonably protected throughout.

The Lebendera Rulebook: We broke almost all of these.

1. There is a vague vehicle track along the North ban of the river. Trust me. 2. Go straight up to the crag from the river. Don’t try traversing in from the side. [ow, ow, ow, ow, prickly! Is it that time already?] 3. It takes a long time to go up and down. Take your head-torch, and batteries for your GPS so that you can find your way back in the dark, rather than scrabbling through acacia bushes and swearing a lot. 4. Bats have right of way, are very noisy, and pooh a lot. 5. Take plenty of water. 6. Don’t go climbing on Natorbe the next day. 7. There are tons of new routes to do, although some might need bolts [aaaagh!]. Start at the base of an obvious steep, kinked crack and chimney line in the vertical buttress left of the large slabby walls, and right of a broken ridge. 1. 40m 4c/5a Follow the crack all the way to a semi-hanging belay where the crack and chimney merge and tilt to the right. Many bats in the chimney to the right. 2. 45m 5a Up the crack under the roof, and then traverse out right to a vertical crack. This proves to be the back of a huge free-standing flake. Climb the crack [full of bats] and then the flake. Move up and right at the top to a wide shallow groove, climb this, and then back left to belay at blocks on a big ledge. 3. 50m. Scramble up the ridge to a cleft below a clean rib on the left. 4. 40m 4c The rib direct, to a belay below a stepped buttress above. 5. 35m 4a the stepped buttress and then the easier angled continuation ridge behind [easy] to a great belay on an acacia tree on a very pleasant leafy and shady ledge. 6. 50m 4c Climb the wall on the right, then make an airy step across a deep cleft [the top of a huge chimney] on to the wall behind. Climb this, moving up diagonally left higher up, and then up to belay below the next buttress, which has a gully/chimney on the right. 7. 50m 4c Climb the dark nose on the left edge of the gully/chimney, then up to a steep crack before moving up right past a tree and then back left. Scramble through gap between large boulders to belay at the back end of a big flat sandy ledge [excellent bivvy site!]. 8. 50m Scramble up across boulders, including an obvious leftwards slanting ledge on the front of a big block, to belay on trees below a cave. 9. 40m 5a Climb the short wall and fig tree root to the left of the cave, and then up the steep wall behind [fingery and exposed], trending left to belay at the top.

Descent by abseil, mostly down the line of the route. Final abseil [down the line of the first two pitches] is a full 60m with a stretch, and is mostly free hanging.