The Bolting Policy of the Mountain Club of Kenya (MCK) attempts to balance respect for the natural environment, the safety of climbers, maintaining the ethics and adventurous character of Kenya climbing and the development of new routes for which there is no natural protection.
Underlying ethics
The underlying ethics of Kenyan climbing stipulate that bolts (or any other fixed protection) should not be placed where natural protection is available. In recognition of the fact that exploration and establishment of new climbs may require the use of bolts, MCK requests that anyone intending to place bolts for the purpose of protecting climbs in Kenya familiarize themselves with the following.
Established routes
Established routes are not to be altered without permission of the first ascentionist. If the first ascensionist cannot be contacted, redevelopment must not take place.
Variations on an established route must not detract from the original route. An average climber should not be able to reach a bolt on a variation if he/she is climbing the original route. If bolts on an established route are deemed inadequate (poor quality, in disrepair, dangerous), they can be replaced by new bolts, preferably using the same holes as the original bolts.
Belay anchors
Placement of anchor bolts follows the same ethics and regulation as placement of bolts for protection- when natural protection is unavailable or where several “sport” routes are near each other. Anchors should have 2 bolts and hangars, and ideally be linked by a chain with a lower-off ring, never single-bolt anchors.
First ascents
First ascensionists set the standard of protection on their route(s). However, bolts should only be used if natural protection is unavailable. First ascents may be done on lead (ground up) or after fixing protection from above. There should be no detraction from the independent character of adjacent routes. (Please record new routes on theCrag.com or contact the Committee if you do not have access).
Visiting climbers
As a courtesy to the MCK, visiting climbers are requested to contact the MCK before placing bolts on new routes anywhere in Kenya. The MCK has members with broad knowledge of the climbing history of Kenyan crags. Further, the Kenya page on theCrag.com has information on nearly all routes in the country. These sources of information will assist visitors in determining if the route(s) they are attempting or have climbed are, in fact, “new”.
Placing bolts at the MCK’s climbing crag at Lukenya requires authorization (see below).
National Parks
Placing bolts on routes in National Parks (e.g.,) Hells Gate, Mt. Kenya, Tsavo West is in general not allowed. Routes will be developed and maintained in their natural, ‘free’ character. A few exceptions exist (such as the rappel line on Nelion), but approval is required from KWS. Contact the MCK Committee about bolting in any national park, as it could endanger access for all climbers.
Use of MCK drill and safety
The MCK drill can be borrowed upon receipt of a Ksh 2,000 refundable deposit. The Committee has ‘right of refusal’ if they question the intentions of the proposed borrower or their ability to use the drill safely and responsibly. The drill will be checked out only to MCK members. Non-member guests may use it only under the direct supervision of the member to whom the drill was checked out.
In all cases, stainless steel or non-corrosive bolts will be used. The MCK has a small store of these type of bolts for sale, and can provide information on which bolts to use. The price of bolts will be set by the MCK Committee. The member who checked out the drill will record the number of bolts used and pay the required fee to the MCK Committee. If an unsafe bolt is found or noticed at Lukenya, the MCK will replace it.
Bolting style
For sport routes, do not grid bolt. Take time to scope out your route and bolts placements first, and place bolts at a reasonable distance – enough to be safe but not every 50 cm. These are wild environments and should be respected. If you are unsure of how to bolt, the MCK will be happy to assist.
Lukenya
The MCK owns this climbing area, and will determine how it is bolted. The Committee notes the words of Philip Winter – “There are now a number of hard, new routes which use one or more bolts for protection, since natural protection is lacking or insufficient. Whilst this trend can be deplored, it is consistent with developments elsewhere, which encompass a split between old-fashioned climbers, and rock gymnasts. I hope a balance is maintained between adventure and gymnastics” – and will strive to maintain this balance.
First ascensionists intending to bolt any route at Lukenya must obtain the written approval of the Committee before doing so.
Any queries, please contact MCK